Now dwarfed by 21st-century Prague, Kutná Hora once marched in step with the capital and, with a little help from fate, might even have stolen its crown. Enriched by the silver ore that ran in veins through the surrounding hills, the medieval city was once the financial heart and soul of Bohemia, becoming the seat of Wenceslas II’s royal mint in 1308 and the royal residence of Wenceslas IV a century later. The silver groschen that were minted here at that time represented the hard currency of Central Europe. But while boom-time Kutná Hora was Prague’s undisputed understudy, the town receded from history when the silver mines began to splutter and run dry in the 16th century, a demise hastened by the Thirty Years’ War and capped by a devastating fire in 1770. While Prague continued to expand, its sister city sank below the political horizon.
Which is not to say everyone has forgotten about it. Kutná Hora has risen from the ashes of obscurity to become an A-list tourist attraction – it was added to Unesco’s World Heritage List in 1996 – luring visitors with a smorgasbord of historic sights and more than a touch of nostalgic whimsy. Standing on the ramparts surrounding the mighty cathedral of St Barbara, looking out across rooftops eerily reminiscent of Prague’s Malá Strana, it’s all too easy to indulge in a spot of melancholic what-might-have-been.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Czech Republic - Prague / Praha
For centuries it has been known as Zlatá Praha or Golden Prague - a glittering jewel of art and architecture nestling snugly at the heart of Europe. Home to emperors and kings, artists and astronomers, this beautiful and fascinating city has worked its subtle magic on generations of visitors, and lent inspiration to musicians and writers from Mozart to Dvořák and Kafka to Klíma.
Kidnapped by communism for 40 years, Prague has returned to the capitalist fold to become one of Europe's most popular tourist destinations. Largely undamaged by the ravages of WWII, its cityscape offers a smorgasbord of stunning architecture, from the soaring verticals of Gothic spires and the buxom exuberance of baroque domes to the sensuous elegance of Art Nouveau maidens and the chiselled cheekbones of Cubist façades.
There are glitzy shopping malls, designer restaurants and cool cocktail bars galore, a feast of film and music festivals, and a packed programme of opera, ballet and drama. Smoky jazz cellars and rock basements compete with DJs and dance clubs into the small hours - no matter how late it is, there's always a party happening somewhere - and then, heading home after an all-nighter, there's the mystical silence of the mist-shrouded Charles Bridge at dawn.
As well as its cultural treasures, Prague offers another precious commodity - the liquid gold of Bohemian beer. The Czechs have been brewing since at least the 9th century - they invented Pilsner, the world's first clear, golden lager, in 1842 - and Czech breweries still produce some of the world's finest beers.
Above all, Prague is to be explored at leisure, whether venturing along the medieval lanes and hidden passages of the Old Town, strolling through the many wooded parks or taking a leisurely cruise along the Vltava. Everywhere you go you will uncover some aspect of the city's multilayered history - in its time Prague has been the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the Habsburg Empire, the first Czechoslovak Republic, the Nazi Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia, the Communist Republic of Czechoslovakia, and the modern, democratic Czech Republic.
Despite the onslaught of mass tourism, the city's dark and mysterious soul survives, haunted by the shadows of Kafka and communism. For those willing to wander off the beaten track, to risk getting lost in the city's maze of alleyways and courtyards, a deeper, truer experience of Golden Prague awaits.
Kidnapped by communism for 40 years, Prague has returned to the capitalist fold to become one of Europe's most popular tourist destinations. Largely undamaged by the ravages of WWII, its cityscape offers a smorgasbord of stunning architecture, from the soaring verticals of Gothic spires and the buxom exuberance of baroque domes to the sensuous elegance of Art Nouveau maidens and the chiselled cheekbones of Cubist façades.
There are glitzy shopping malls, designer restaurants and cool cocktail bars galore, a feast of film and music festivals, and a packed programme of opera, ballet and drama. Smoky jazz cellars and rock basements compete with DJs and dance clubs into the small hours - no matter how late it is, there's always a party happening somewhere - and then, heading home after an all-nighter, there's the mystical silence of the mist-shrouded Charles Bridge at dawn.
As well as its cultural treasures, Prague offers another precious commodity - the liquid gold of Bohemian beer. The Czechs have been brewing since at least the 9th century - they invented Pilsner, the world's first clear, golden lager, in 1842 - and Czech breweries still produce some of the world's finest beers.
Above all, Prague is to be explored at leisure, whether venturing along the medieval lanes and hidden passages of the Old Town, strolling through the many wooded parks or taking a leisurely cruise along the Vltava. Everywhere you go you will uncover some aspect of the city's multilayered history - in its time Prague has been the capital of the Holy Roman Empire, the Habsburg Empire, the first Czechoslovak Republic, the Nazi Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia, the Communist Republic of Czechoslovakia, and the modern, democratic Czech Republic.
Despite the onslaught of mass tourism, the city's dark and mysterious soul survives, haunted by the shadows of Kafka and communism. For those willing to wander off the beaten track, to risk getting lost in the city's maze of alleyways and courtyards, a deeper, truer experience of Golden Prague awaits.
Argentina - Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires runs on nostalgia and cosmopolitan ambition. For every group of trendsetters laughing over cocktails, there’s a cluster of oldtimers gathered around a radio, a tear rolling down someone’s cheek as Carlos Gardel sings of the glowing street lamps of his beloved city. The dichotomy is rooted in Argentina’s tumultuous past. The capital city, once a prosperous European-style metropolis teeming with glamorous tango halls and grand cafes, buckled under the strain of a military government and several economic collapses. But Buenos Aires is back on its feet. A talented generation of designers, fútbolistas (soccer players), musicians and restaurateurs have reinvigorated the beleaguered capital, transforming it into one of the most talked-about travel destinations on the planet.
The hype, after all, is warranted – the steak really is the best in the world, dance halls fi ll with tango students every night of the week, the soccer matches are intense and passionate, the wine is aff ordable and delicious. But Buenos Aires’ magnetism, as any porteño (BA local) will tell you, extends well beyond such clichés. Architecturally speaking, the city is a fascinating microcosm of styles from colonial to belle epoque to modernist. The Parisian-style cafe circuit, backed by an intriguing literary history, is paradise for bookish types and coff ee lovers, and the edgy local fashion scene seduces design-minded travelers.
Gorge yourself on red meat at a rustic parrilla (grill restaurant), nurse a bottle of Malbec at an old-fashioned milonga (social dance) as local tango dancers embrace dramatically on the wooden dance floor, pull an all-nighter at a thumping electronic venues along the Costanera, revel in gaucho culture at a peña (folk music club). Give Buenos Aires some time. Soon you’ll begin to understand the bittersweet charm – the poignant collision of old-fashioned sensibility and contemporary revolution – that simultaneously thrills visitors and makes old men shed a tear or two.
For cafe culture lovers - make sure that you indulge on Submarino - hot milk served with a real chocolate bar.
The hype, after all, is warranted – the steak really is the best in the world, dance halls fi ll with tango students every night of the week, the soccer matches are intense and passionate, the wine is aff ordable and delicious. But Buenos Aires’ magnetism, as any porteño (BA local) will tell you, extends well beyond such clichés. Architecturally speaking, the city is a fascinating microcosm of styles from colonial to belle epoque to modernist. The Parisian-style cafe circuit, backed by an intriguing literary history, is paradise for bookish types and coff ee lovers, and the edgy local fashion scene seduces design-minded travelers.
Gorge yourself on red meat at a rustic parrilla (grill restaurant), nurse a bottle of Malbec at an old-fashioned milonga (social dance) as local tango dancers embrace dramatically on the wooden dance floor, pull an all-nighter at a thumping electronic venues along the Costanera, revel in gaucho culture at a peña (folk music club). Give Buenos Aires some time. Soon you’ll begin to understand the bittersweet charm – the poignant collision of old-fashioned sensibility and contemporary revolution – that simultaneously thrills visitors and makes old men shed a tear or two.
For cafe culture lovers - make sure that you indulge on Submarino - hot milk served with a real chocolate bar.
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